There’s classic, there’s contemporary, and then there’s cutting-edge and groundbreaking. These timepieces fit the final box.
The past few years have ushered in a new era of watchmaking. Horologists are no longer fearful of pushing the boundaries of time. They are giving due attention to not only experimenting with the aesthetics but also the mechanics of timepieces. From lesser-known watchmakers like Trilobe to popular brands like Bvlgari—everyone is up to the challenge. Here, we look at some of the most innovative luxury watches in the world right now.
MB&F Horological Machine No2 (HM2)
Inspired by the sci-fi films of the 20th century, this is no ordinary timepiece. But to be fair, none by Maximilian Büsser & Friends (MB&F) are. Having been on the scene for some time, the watchmaker is known for its wacky, out-of-the-box creations, and HM2 is one of them. This watch will remind you simultaneously of a space station from old sci-fi films and the eyes of Mad-Eye Moody, the popular Harry Potter character.
For starters, the watch has a rectangular case; perhaps on the lower end of whimsy given that many older timepieces featured a rectangular case. However, the comparison ends there. The timepiece boasts a modular construction and two “portholes” (or dials). On the left dial, you find the date and moon phase, and on the right, the hours and minutes. The closer you get to the watch, the more interesting it becomes as you start to notice details—the two white gold moon phases representing the two hemispheres on the moon phase, the complexities of the case and more.
The Bvlgari Serpenti timepiece has one aim: seduction. At the outset, it seduces the potential buyer. With a case shaped like a snakehead and the body following suit, the watch is certainly eye-catching. It is embedded with diamonds and other precious stones, and you can choose from bracelets of different lengths on its website. In the case of the dial, too, wearers can pick from hues of green, white or black.
Bvlgari’s snake motif is not a new discovery; in fact, it is 75 years old. It has found its rightful place within the luxury brand’s sunglasses, bracelets and much more. It is Bvlgari’s bestselling motif, and its sales have gone up 30 times in the last decade, as per its chief executive Jean-Christophe Babin. Over the years, the collection has found itself on the wrists of popular celebrities (like actress Priyanka Chopra) and the wishlist of many a layman.
Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Rainbow 3D Carbon
One glance will tell you that nothing about this watch seems ordinary. Maybe that’s why only eight pieces of it are up for grabs. The pop of the rainbow is perfectly complemented by the complexities that make the watch. With a case made of mat rainbow 3D carbon, you might feel that the design of this watch is more than aesthetics. Maybe it is Hublot taking a stand. Maybe it isn’t.
Rest assured, a lot of effort went into achieving the brilliance of a rainbow. Basically developing a form of the prism, Hublot used hundreds of colored inserts to deceive the human eye into forming a rainbow. That’s not where its creativity ends. The 3D carbon is a technical feat, with fibers woven on three planes. Plus, the timepiece boasts a five-day power reserve. All the details aside, just imagine how cool this timepiece would look when worn.
Jacob and Co. Astronomia Tourbillon Bucherer Blue
Kind of like MB&F, Jacob and Co. is known for its wacky creations. That’s why it’s difficult to pick one for this round-up. Though the watchmaker has made many eye-catching pieces independently (like the Astronomia Solar Bitcoin watch), here, we went with a collaboration.
Fashioned in 2022, Jacob and Co’s Astronomia Tourbillon Bucherer Blue represents the coming together of two well-known and innovative watchmakers: Jacob and Co. and Bucherer. Perhaps the most exciting feature of this timepiece is that it has been in space. It looks like it has, too. The semi-skeletonized case gives you a peak into the trappings of this timepiece. Much like you would marvel at our solar system. This watch is currently being auctioned off for charity at Sotheby’s.
Trilobe Une Folle Journée (Black)
Look ma, no hands—the Trilobe timepiece challenges every norm of watchmaking. Off-center dials, floating rings and a titanium case, the watch has it all. Ironically enough, the watch emancipates time, allowing it to fly at a 10.2 mm height in the spaceship-like structure. Made using grade 5 titanium, the rings in the timepiece rotate to display the time (the largest one bears the hours, the middle bears the minutes and the smallest one has the seconds). The open dial enables you to admire the brand’s signature X-Centric³ (cubic) movement. The watch is also available in blue.
Of course, this list is not exhaustive. Many other watch brands, from Urwerk to Ulysse Nardin, are also excelling at crafting some of the most mind-blogging watches. And they look worth every penny.
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Header Image by Bvlgari and Jacob and Co.